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Natural beauty
UNLIKE parts of Spain, Portugal isn't disappearing under a vast ex-pat concrete jungle - there is just so much rural and cultural beauty left to discover.
For my first two nights in the Algarve, I found myself based in the gorgeous Monchique region, from where I had ample opportunity to visit the many beaches and birdwatching spots I was here to enjoy.
The Vila Termal das Caldas de Monchique, which is dotted around the quaint and craggy valley, houses not only some truly gorgeous hotel rooms, with everything provided for a comfortable stay, but also thermal spa waters providing the perfect opportunity to relax after a hard day birding/surfing/trekking (delete as appropriate).
The Algarve is very proud to host everything the outdoor-type could possibly want, boasting an environment that's a pure delight for the senses.
Jumping in a jeep, we headed off to sample the delights of some of the more obscure beaches - those where you're more likely to see a rather rare hoopoe than a British tourist.
Before reaching the coast, however, we stopped off at the Aljezur Castello, 12th century castle ruins on a hill-top coupled with beautiful views over the valley below, with a village including the quaint and traditional indoor mercado, displaying a fine array of fish, veg and other traditional fare.
Then there are the beaches, like Carrapateira, boasting great swathes of sand, a vast cove of crashing waves and some of the most beautiful coastline in Portugal, with next to nobody there when we visited - just a few locals surfing and kitesurfing in some fantastic waves, dog-walkers, nature fiends and the odd fisherman.
While it may have been October, the sun was shining, and the views were breathtaking, so it wasn't for a want of beach-faring conditions.
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| Ornithological tour guide Ricarda Knuth |
Whizzing along the coast, stopping to enjoy the delights of the equally impressive and deserted Praia do Amado, we soon found ourselves at the most south-westerly point of Europe, admiring the huge lighthouse at Ponta de Sagres.
Looking down over the immense cliffs to see the waves crashing against the rocks below was impressive enough, topped only by the local fishermen balanced precariously half-way down, stubbornly fishing in one of the "best spots" (and certainly the most dangerous) around. It was incredibly satisfying to learn, too, that this whole area is national park greenbelt - safe from any greedy developers!
With birdwatching and general nature walks high on our agenda, Ria de Alvor was a must destination.
Meeting up with ornithological expert Ricarda Knuth, of the nature tourism operator Lands, was the key to getting the most from our walk around the marshy shoreline and seeing as many of the marine species as we possibly could, with the help of the binoculars provided.
Among the Godwits, black-winged stilts, whimbrels, greenshanks and oystercatchers, we were delighted to observe the leggy flamingos as they wandered around elegantly picking through the weeds and water for a tasty meal. Being the ideal guide for a beginners' group, such as we were, Ricarda pointed out the various bird species we were seeing, giving some background information without boring us non-serious birders with intricate histories.
After such a good long walk and lungfuls of fresh sea air, an early night was called for, and the seclusion of Caldas de Monchique ensured a great night's sleep in the comfortable and well presented rooms of the hotel - having first enjoyed a wonderful meal at the picturesque Jardim des Oliveiras (a cosy traditional restaurant hidden in the hills not too far from the hotel) and a jolly good pampering session in the spa of course!
Other fantastic birdwatching days followed, one spent on a boat at the Ria Formosa National Park, accompanied by our extremely knowledgeable and observant guide Barbara, of the Formosamar tour - one I would highly recommend, as she certainly knew her stuff and has the eyes of a hawk!
Highlight of this particular jaunt was the spotting (by our guide, of course) of an osprey - a magical species that I'd never seen before.
Like so many of the activities in the Algarve, our boat trip wasn't just for birdspotting. Mooring up at an immensely pretty and, once again, deserted beach, we went for a paddle in the glorious waters.
Hopping out of our boat, we strolled around the ancient city of Faro, absorbing the fascinating history on offer in the Municipal Museum within the city walls, and the awesome cathedral, as well as yet more superb avian sightings, in the form of the gigantic white storks making their huge nests on the roofs of all the city's oldest buildings and archways.
Some of the fine food on offer at the Vila Adentro Galeria restaurant, not far from the museum, was the perfect refreshment, particularly as we enjoyed our choices (mine a selection from the extensive vegetarian offerings) on the cobbled terrace outside - accompanied, of course, with a bottle of crisp white wine.
An ideal hotel, in situation and facilities, for these activities, is the not-too-distant Hotel Vila Galé, in the picturesque town of Tavira, boasting as it does a gorgeous pool, and thoroughly sumptuous rooms.
Factfile
For further information on Portugal and Algarve call the Portuguese National Tourist Office on 0845 355 1212 (local call) or go to visitportugal.com
Hotels - Villa Termal das Caldas de Monchique (monchiquetermas. com), Hotel Vila Galé Tavira (vilagale.pt)
Destination Portugal offers various holidays to the Algarve, including the Hotel Vila Gale Tavira - b&b basis for seven nights (twin share) and seven days car hire, costs from £350 to £907 per person. Flights can be arranged as an additional extra from most airports in the UK. Visit destination-portugal.co.uk or call 01993 773269.
Algarve Agency offers accommodation in the Algarve from £140 per person per week in the winter season and from £340 in peak season. Flights can be arranged upon request. More information at algarveagency.com or call 01204 595222.
9:15am Saturday 17th May 2008
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